The disaster that almost happened.

We were sitting in our apartment last Saturday morning when there was a huge crash outside the window. We jumped up and looked out and the train car that usually sits down the track a hundred yards or so was right under us. 7.18.15 train off rails-003

There is a corner of a green recycling barrel on the left. The metal frame that was intended to block the end of the tracks fell off its concrete base The three green barrels were crushed against the electric company connection boxes for our building, and seem to have kept it from getting knocked over.

 

 

 

 

 

As you can see in the next photo, the train (now moved) was backed up against the electrical boxes, Just beyond it is our car. I’m so glad that the train ran out of track and stuck in the ground, merely squashing the recycling cans. If it kept going and knocked out the electrical service it would next have crushed our car…Now that would have been a disaster!

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Men came out to try and get the train back on the tracks. They gave up and came out again on Sunday.

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With iron plates and hammers, they tried to get the rear wheels back on the rails just the way you would try to get a car out of sand using boards. It didn’t work.

On Monday, however, the right tool was obtained and the train got back on the track. It was a triangular guide that is used just to funnel train wheels back on rails.

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A different group arrived to dig up and replace two ties at the very end of the rails.

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Notice that the “end” of the track is now much further from the electrical boxes than it was before the accident. Now the square red sign seems to indicate the end of the line.

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The train is called the Skunk Train and it follows and old logging route. We have not taken it because most of the route is closed for repairs, but it goes out for an hour twice a day in the summer. On some days they use a steam engine and it is a sight reminiscent of Monet’s paintings of Gare St. Lazare (same engine), tendrils of steam curl up the sides of the engine while clouds of it emerge from the smokestack. The engineer uses the steam whistle a lot on those days.

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The train pulls out in a cloud of steam.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Magical Realism? July 20, 2015

Did you know that redwoods grow more successfully from sprouts that form around the base of a tree, utilizing the nutrients and root system of a mature tree? When the parent tree dies, a new generation of trees rise, creating a circle of trees that are often called fairy rings (Wikipedia).

We hiked in a loop from the Pygmy Forest to Little River and back, all park of Van Damme State Park. It was magical scenery.

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We stopped for lunch about 2/3 of the way along the trail, and sat on a log near a waterfall.

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Some of the ferns would make a decorator green–with envy. How could you get a wall of moss to grow like this away from the forest?

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So green…

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Our path along the river was not a trail along the banks of a broad stream, but a series of bridges that crossed back and forth across a smallish trickle. Considering that we are in California, it looked pretty extensive.

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We took some time to play Pooh sticks (look it up if you have to).

Another beautiful day, July 19, 2015

More search for fish yielded beautiful scenery. Doesn’t this look like the Caribbean?

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Fishing boats roamed the water beyond this arch.

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Despite all the company, we didn’t land any fish.

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Harbor seals lounged on the rocks until the tide rose and pushed them off, then they flopped and rolled and skooched onto a slightly higher rock. There may be a sea lion mixed in with these guys, and even that molting elephant seal (palest colored animal) from the beach around the corner.

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What a week! Nature and culture in Mendocino.

I believe everyone says “where does the time go”? They’re right.

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The Mendocino Music Festival got into high gear this week and we attended three events, the California Honey Drops, a concert of five groups “A Capella Fever” and a fully staged opera, The Barber of Seville. The opera was my favorite so far, it had a simple but effective set, clever staging, and wonderful, strong, well-matched voices. Besides, this is a funny opera, no one dies. (Is it opera if no one dies?)

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Each one was better than the last and we still have one concert to go next week.

Between concerts, there was still lot of coast to explore, fish not to catch, and birds to identify.

We checked the tide table and planned to go snorkeling near low tide on Tuesday. The forecast was for warm weather, into the 80s, all week long. On Tuesday, we got up to heavy overcast, temperatures in the low 60s and a small craft warning (wind and waves) through Friday night. We decided against snorkeling (!), and drove down to see Point Arena pier. We tried fishing, but no luck. We did try both the Manhattan and New England clam chowder at the chowder house on the pier.7.14.15 Point Arenasm

We made an interesting discovery on our way out of town. In Point Arena, the Senior Center and the Druids meeting house are the same place….

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On to birds:

On the third Wednesday of each month, there is a bird watching visit to the botanical garden sponsored by the local Audubon club. A good-sized group of us met at 8 am and entered by a side gate. About half the group were local members and half were people like us who had read about the visit and just showed up. Our leader, Tim, said that this was not the beginner bird walk and would focus on identifying birds by ear. The combined expertise and eyeballs of a group yielded lots of birds and good company. Each person seemed to have a suggestion about how to identify birds or how to see them in the trees. We saw a young hawk sitting on the top of a tree begging for food. Apparently, it is old enough to hunt and the parents stop feeding it to get it to go out and feed itself, but some resist growing up. (Sound familiar?)

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We also saw woodpeckers, warblers, bushtits, sparrows and seabirds. Most were moving too fast to photograph, but the gardens are irresistible for photos.

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Though we waited for the wind and waves to abate, they did not, so we went on a field trip to Ukiah to see the Grace Hudson Museum and Sun House (her home).

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The museum has four exhibit areas. Two small spaces show Hudson family history and Pomo baskets. A larger space exhibits Grace Hudson’s paintings. This was a bit of a shock as I knew nothing about her as a painter, other than that she was very successful in the late 19th and early 20th century. Her paintings are big-eyed, red-cheeked Pomo children, and some adults. The notes indicate that she was accurate in the details of clothing and household goods, but the people are obviously idealized. This was popular?

The front exhibit space was on contemporary Japanese bamboo weaving. It was a lovely exhibit with spectacular objects that involved a lot of intensive labor. Most artists shown are older Japanese men (one woman), and may take a year to create one piece. In a few of the cases, Pomo baskets from the museum collection were added to contrast a technique, and that was quite interesting.

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I had expected to see more Pomo baskets, because that is what Grace Hudson and her husband were known for collecting. When you read about them, though, you find out that John Hudson worked for a time as a curator at the Field Museum under George Dorsey. Any collecting he did would have been for the Field Museum, which has a collection of baskets Hudson made. After falling out with Dorsey, Hudson returned to California and amassed a collection of Pomo basketry that he sold to the Smithsonian to finance construction of their home, that they called the Sun House. Perhaps there wasn’t much time or money left to collect their own baskets.

Our field trip to Ukiah showed us how lucky we are to be on the coast. In mid-afternoon in Ukiah it was 102º, breathtakingly hot. We drove back to Ft. Bragg through the redwoods and by the time we arrived, it was in the high 60s. It may not be swimming weather, but it is more comfortable than 100 degrees.

Friday we returned to Bruhel Point (see previous post) to do some more fishing. We saw this butterfly while crossing to the rocks from our parking spot. I haven’t been able to identify it.

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Jonathan decided to carry his fishing pole guitar-style.

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Once again, the fish were not with us. The water was pretty rough and we ended up hiking along the rocks to check out a small blowhole.

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Is scum on the ocean natural or man-made? There was no obvious source for this.

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There were some nice tidepools on the rocks,

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and naturally sculpted rocks:

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We hiked back to the car and called it a good day, even if it was still overcast and cold. After all, we could be in Ukiah!

Last but not least was the Mendocino Art and Craft Fair, at the Mendocino Art Center.

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The Art Center shows art, holds classes, invites visiting artists. I looked at the list  of classes, but they seem to let artists teach what they want, so there are no beginner classes and lots of painting on silk and electroplating, etc. These seemed way beyond beginning watercolor…..

However, I did my best to support local artists by visiting every booth in the show and buying a sensational blue beaded necklace from Carol Bernau, an artist from Oakland [Adornable, Art to wear for the young at heart]. My outfit didn’t exactly match, but I am sure I can find something better at home.

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Bruhel Point, Sunday July 12, 2015

We found another striking  spot on Sunday, between Ft. Bragg and Westport, just north of the Pacific Star Winery. According to the guidebook it is Bruhel Point, though there is not a sign indicating that name at the pullout. There are picnic tables and benches and a trail toward the water. 7.12.15 Bruhel point1sm

We started out in the afternoon and ended up walking on the rocks with the sun sinking into the water–everything was silver.

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As the tide came in it created small waterfalls across the rock formations.

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Huge tidepools filled and emptied. A pair of California seals lay sunning themselves on the rocks nearby.

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Trails follow the top of the bluffs overlooking the water. There were a few other people out walking, but not very many.

Busy Saturday: July 11, 2015

We started the day at the Pack Rat Sale, a benefit for the Mendocino Botanical Garden. This annual event really brought out the shoppers. We arrived at 8:10 am and people had obviously been waiting for the 8 am opening because there were cars everywhere and the place was mobbed.

7.11 pack rat saleDespite the fact that I have to pare my belongings down to two suitcases, I couldn’t resist some vintage jewelry from Mexico that I will wear to the Mendocino Music Festival concert on Monday (the California Honeydrops). We also got a second hummingbird feeder so that the hummers don’t have to fight over the feeder in August when we return to Eckhart’s house with the wonderful deck and birds. We’ll give each species their own feeder.

Judging by people buying everything from power tools to lawn furniture, the sale will be a success for the garden.

We decided to continue our investigation of all the roads leading to the coast, this time taking notes. We went to the main entrance of McKerricher state park and realized that on our previous visit we entered somewhere else and had never made it there. The sun was out and surprisingly warm–it is July, though it has only been really warm for a few days. I was ready to try out my new camera that Jonathan got me for my birthday. My new Nikon Coolpix is waterproof AND has an optical zoom, which is a clever design for an underwater camera.

Walking around Cleone lake, we kidded each other about being out at the worst possible time for bird watching, and then we began to see birds. A blue heron, a great egret, a duck and duckling, hummingbirds. After a break for lunch, we explored an extension of the park further south toward Ft. Bragg. There is a pullout and trail head just south of Lyndon Lane. We saw some birds along the trail, and then walked on the sandy beach, where we saw what turned out to be a flock of sanderlings.7.11.15 Mile 63.81-020sm

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Making lemonade from a lemon of a day July 10, 2015

Getting an injection in your eye is not as bad as it sounds–I have started getting Eyelea in my right eye as a treatment for the wet form of macular degeneration. It’s not the shot that was a pain, but the insurance authorization.

It was a big hassle to get my insurance coverage shifted from my doctor in Illinois to a doctor in California, and it took long enough that I had to make a second trip to Santa Rosa, about a two-hour drive each way from our base in Ft. Bragg. On this second trip today, I was finally able to get the injection, and I don’t have to go in again for 6 weeks.

After my appointment, we looked for an interesting place to have lunch in Santa Rosa, and we found Spinster Sisters via Yelp. It sounded interesting, so off we went.

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Great mural!

It was a delicious lunch, it almost makes me look forward to my next appointment. Next time I’m going to save room for dessert.

We headed back toward Ft. Bragg, but made a stop to taste some wine at the Parducci vineyard. When i was a graduate student working on a research project in Costa Rica, I met an Italian family that had emigrated there to start the wine industry. There were two sons, Pepe and Virgilio. Pepe married another archaeology grad student and they eventually moved to California, where he worked for Parducci. That was a long time ago, but it was a pleasure to think about all the fun we had in Costa Rica–their wine was great–and the visit I had with them in their early days at Parducci and in Ukiah.

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Wildlife

We’ve seen some wonderful creatures. Beautiful ones like a pale swallowtail butterfly:

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On 7.11.15 we added an anise swallowtail butterfly:

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Some are not so lovely but just as interesting. We had seen harbor seals at Russian Gulch:

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and just recently we saw California sea lions at Caspar Headlands. They are even bigger than harbor seals, dark brown, and often swim with one big black flipper sticking out of the water. We heard them barking in the water and couldn’t entirely figure out what they were. When we went back to fish again on 7/9 we saw what we think are the same pair hauled out on the rocks. OK, they do look better through binoculars.

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On 7.11.15 we also added to the difficult to see, curious animals with a young elephant seal that is molting on the beach at McKerricher state park. The rangers warn visitors to stay back, and the smell is an inducement to keeping your distance. This young seal is pretty miserable, but presumably will be back in the water and good to go soon.

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Can you tell which of these is the elephant seal? Both seem to be molting.

More unrequited fishing and Abalone, July 7, 2015

We decided to try fishing again, this time at Caspar Headlands, a place we’ve driven past. Reading about this area we found that a temporary pass is required, so we stopped by the Headquarters Building on the East side of Route 1 at Russian Gulch and were able to collect the required paper. Caspar Headlands is a relatively small area, state lands with access to the shore through a residential neighborhood. There are good places to fish and a lot to look at.

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While Jonathan fished, Paula and I looked around.

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When I caught up to Jonathan and Paula back by the fishing spot, they had found a LIVE ABALONE! It was in a tide pool and the tide was just coming back in, so we got a good look at it and took a photo.

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That pale green circle is a sea anemone, the reddish oval below it is a red abalone. An aquarium docent I know said that if you brush the little feelers that stick out of the holes of an abalone, it will sometimes try to touch you with its foot. I got down as close to the water as I could and tiptoed my fingers across the abalone’s shell, trying to make contact with the feelers, but I didn’t feel them and then I felt a weird squishy thing and I jumped away from it. That was good for two reasons. The squishy thing was the abalone’s foot and according to Paula and Jonathan who were watching, as soon as it felt my finger it squeezed itself to the rock and pulled all its foot underneath the shell. By jumping up and stepping back up the rock to where the others were standing (slightly creeped out by the abalone’s touch) I just missed being completely swamped by a wave. The tide was coming in, so it was time to leave the abalone to its business.

Paula and I took a picture for mom (no hats, no sunglasses, make sure your face shows):

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Only a tiny bit smarmy–don’t tell mom.

PS. We didn’t catch any fish. We had a delicious birthday dinner at Mendo Bistro, right in the same building as our current apartment. We retreated back to the apartment, creme brulee and a super duper Sauterne Chateau Guiraud 2011 that Paula brought. We declared it a joint birthday treat.

 

Low Tide follies, Sunday July 6-Monday July 7 (and an abalone bandit)

The lowest tides between July 1 and Sept 1 were on July 6 and 7. We decided to take advantage of the very lowest tide on Sunday to visit the beaches to the south of the Glass Beach in Ft. Bragg. This was .9 ft lower than the usual low tide.

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These are the beaches that acted as the landfill for Ft. Bragg until around 1960. Since then the organic material has all washed away or degraded, and what remains are glass fragments that have been rolling along the rocky bottom.The beach is covered with sea glass.

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Glass Beach is now a tourist attraction, but management of the site is inconsistent. Guide books say that collecting glass from the beach is not permitted, and access to several sections of beach is blocked by a low wire strung parallel to the blufftop bike path. A sign says that the bluffs are crumbly, which they are, but if you look down at the beaches, you see local people and visitors walking around, and some are collecting glass. Often, the collectors are artists looking for material for jewelry that they sell locally and on line, while others are visitors looking for souvenirs.

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This photo shows you how far the layer of beach glass extends.

It was great to see the extent of the glass, and though different people say there are other beaches that have similar beds of tumbled glass. I find that hard to believe. When we visited the Beach Glass Museum & Gallery locally, we found small bags of raw glass for sale that visitors are encouraged to purchase and deposit at their favorite beach so that the beach glass doesn’t disappear. Local stores feature lots of beach glass jewelry, much of it labeled as locally collected material. In fact, however, much less expensive than a trip to Mendocino to collect beach glass would be to make it yourself in a rock tumbler.

ABALONE ALERT:

The abalone hunting season closed on June 30 and reopens on August 1. When we were leaving Glass Beach, we saw a park ranger speaking to two men, one wearing a wet suit, the other in street clothes and carrying a dog-carrier-sized duffel. We watched for a few minutes out of curiosity and found that the ranger was arresting them for poaching abalone. Go park ranger!

MONDAY JULY 6, 2015–Low tide again

Today’s low tide was not quite as low as Sunday (-.4 ft) but still unusually low, so Paula (visiting this week) and I went to Van Damme State Beach to beach comb for abalone shell fragments. Van Damme is a gravelly, rocky beach, and for some reason abalone shell fragments wash up there more frequently than on other beaches we’ve visited.

From Van Damme beach we moved up the hill to park on Peterson Lane and walk down to the Little River Point/Spring Ranch area, near where we stayed in June.

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I wanted to show Paula the beautiful rocky coast, and to check out a tiny beach accessible by a short scramble through the trees. Sure enough, we found a few nice abalone bits there, thanks to the low tide.

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Entrance to the path. Do you see me?

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Tiny cave and beach.

By the time we did all this is was barely 10:30 am and Paula’s fitbit guaranteed us that we were as tired as we felt, so we retreated to Mendocino for a stroll and coffee and a pastry at the Goodlife Cafe and Bakery (delicious).