Ashland, OR is famed for the Oregon Shakespeare Festival (OSF), but there is an off-season, roughly New Year’s through early March, when there are no plays on. Jonathan and I visited in this interval, and we had an excellent time, even with the Bard and company in hibernation. We spent a weekend eating and drinking, and it was just right for us.
We were headed to a wine-tasting fundraiser for the public radio station, Jefferson Public Radio (JPR) based at Southern Oregon University. JPR reaches us in Eureka, and is a valuable source of news and programming. Ashland is about halfway between us in Eureka and my sister Paula in Portland, so we recruited Paula and her partner Wayne to meet us for the weekend.

We left Eureka on a dry and sunny Friday morning, perfect for a drive through the redwoods. Stands of trees were interspersed with views of the ocean. There are few towns or gas stations, only an occasional tourist stop. We passed Trees of Mystery with its huge models of Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox.

At Elk Prairie, we pulled over to watch a herd of elk grazing in a front yard.
In Crescent City, we stopped so I could do some beachcombing. It wasn’t low tide, or particularly good conditions, but I had a chance to wander around the high tide line and had a break from driving.


Back on the road, we headed inland through more forests into Oregon. The road shifted from two to four lanes and back, demanding driving, but the views were gorgeous trees, wooded hillsides, and meadows. At Grants Pass, the interstate reappears (I-5) and the final stretch into Ashland went quickly.
We stayed at the Ashland Hills Hotel & Suites, where the JPR fundraiser took place. We arrived around 4:30 pm, with time to rest and change then head to the ballroom. What a spread! We weren’t sure what to expect, and found a ballroom full of tasting stations including about 30 wineries, as well as restaurant samples, a couple of cider and beer brewers, cheesemakers and chocolatiers. And we were wondering whether we’d need dinner after the event (Hah!).
There was a “cork pull” that I hadn’t heard of before. For $20 you picked a numbered cork from a bag and were given the bottle with that number. When you opened the bag and took out your wine, you could check a list to see the normal price of the bottle, anywhere from $29 to $99 values. Jonathan had gotten each of us a cork.

Even sticking to white wines and pouring out a lot of the more generous tastes, I could not taste everything on offer. Some wineries brought two or three whites or roses. I had to take a break and find a place to sit for a few minutes.
The food was very good. My favorites were wagyu meatballs, tomato basil soup, and the raw oysters. There was a kale salad that was, dare I say it, delicious, and several varieties of pizza. The strangest food I tasted was a savory blue cheese/chocolate butter that I liked, but comparing notes with my group and a few random people, it’s not for everyone.
A small combo played, accompanied by a very good singer in a very sparkly form-fitting dress that was admired by many. I am waiting to hear how much of a success the fundraiser was for the radio station, but judging by the size and enthusiasm of the crowd and the number of people leaving with wine purchases, they did well. It wasn’t until the very end that I discovered this year was the 46th annual wine tasting fundraiser for JPR. Maybe we’ll be back next year.
The next day we started with brunch at The Breadboard, where I had a marionberry scone with extra marionberry sauce on top. Marionberries are an Oregon specialty, and I wanted to take advantage. Others had biscuits and gravy, waffles, eggs, and bacon, and it was all good. Next up was a walk around Ashland to window shop and see what was new. Afterwards, it was overcast and getting chilly, so we drove around beautiful Lithia Park rather than taking a walk. The park goes up the hill from the grounds of the Shakespeare Festival complex and offers spectacular views over the city.
Back to the hotel to rest for a while, then we met up for late afternoon beverages and a few rounds of gin rummy. Each of us play a few hands of gin at the end of the day, and when we are together, we play a round robin until one person wins three hands.

Dinner was at Cocorico, recommended by a friend. I had some doubts, because it’s not an extensive menu, but it was a real treat. The starters alone could have been dinner. We shared manila clams, grilled octopus, olives, and garlic bread, accompanied by cocktails and a bottle of 2009 cabernet sauvignon from Simoneau, one of our prizes from the cork pull. It was delicious. My mushroom bolognese was one of the best mushroom dishes I’ve had, while Paula tried their carbonara. The men had lamb shanks, despite each of them having made lamb shanks just a week ago when they each cooked their birthday dinners (on nearly the same date) in different states.
Full of conversation and good food, we slept well and were ready for the drive home on Sunday. We said our farewells to Paula and Wayne, set off and then immediately stopped to have breakfast at Morning Glory. We arrived just before 9 am, and were seated almost immediately, though a line formed right after that. Reviews mention how crowded it gets on the weekend, but we got there relatively early for a Sunday. I had the lemon ricotta stuffed french toast they are known for, and Jonathan had a mushroom crepe that was among the day’s specials. Portions were very large and we took more than half of each home with us. The lattes were good sized, and we’d happily eat there again.
NB: This restaurant is particularly difficult for people with mobility issues. The tiny parking area in the rear has one handicapped parking space not visible from the street. Even if you know it’s there, the driveway is very steep and you must walk up to the front door, where there are still two steps. The rear entrance is up a flight of stairs. We parked in the neighborhood, as most people must, and found the sidewalks cracked and uneven up a slight hill. At the top the sidewalk is banked to tilt you toward the street, making it difficult for a walker or wheelchair. Inside the restaurant, tables are close and the waiting area is small. The host looked doubtfully at Jonathan’s walker, but we agreed we could find a spot for it that would not block others access to tables. It’s difficult enough to get around with a walker, and Morning Glory does not make your visit any easier. On the other hand, the food is good.
Having enjoyed beautiful weather on our drive to Ashland, on the return trip it rained the entire drive back to Eureka. The weather didn’t seem to bother the elk, who were still sitting by the side of the road at Elk Prairie.

You can have an excellent weekend in Ashland, even when it’s the off season.
NB: The banner photo of the area called “The Bricks” at OSF is an internet photo.






















































































































































































































































