Taking a break in Oualidia

It’s easier to say as Wah-Lidia, a small beach town on a lagoon that offers a surfing school (we enjoyed watching the wet-suited group from a distance), oysters farmed locally that we ate every day,

and bird-watching. From our Airbnb home we have a great view over the lagoon to the ocean.

It was a comfortable beach house, a bit dated, but comfortable, obviously a family home. The kitchen had everything you could need for cooking.

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To say that this town is quiet in the off season is an understatement. There is a large campground full of RVs that seem to be European retirees, though we only see a few people strolling up and down. On Sunday afternoon, the park by the water was full of children playing and families chatting, but most days were quiet. There isn’t much beach right here, the shore is rocky, made of porous material that is like lava to walk on.

There was a “souk hebdomadaire,” a weekly market that set up in a field at the edge of town. It was a true a field of tents. It was even more hands-on than markets in Peru, with people killing and cleaning chickens in one section, selling spices in another, shoes and clothing along another aisle. (I had only a few photos from a distance, in deference to the number of people who don’t want their picture taken, then I accidentally erased the ones I had.) I bought a pair of bright pink leather slippers (babouche) stamped with camels on the toes. What could be better!

Jonathan bought lamb and used the couscousiere, couscous cooker, to make couscous with preserved lemons, olives and garbanzos. We should have invited the neighbors.

Bird-watching is excellent in Oualidia because of the large lagoons. We had great luck in an area that looked like some disaster had struck. There was a grand bridge/stairway that ended suddenly, with piles of discarded construction debris dumped along the road. Bridge across the RV park, ends in swamp.In the middle of all this we saw a spoonbill, Kentish plovers, common plover, stilts, and even a Sardinian warbler. It was great.




We explored the coast to the south. Once you leave the shore, you are faced with miles of rocky landscape. People farm and graze despite the rock that is everywhere.3.27.16-018sm

There are towns and monuments among the rocks. We stopped at the lighthouse at Cap Beddouza, and saw a few distinctive places. Some may be tombs of saints, Muslim holy men.

Daily life intrudes on the landscape.


Published by winifredcreamer

I am a retired archaeologist and I like to travel, especially to places where you can walk along the shore or watch birds. My husband Jonathan and I travel for more than half the year every year, seeing all the places that we haven't gotten to yet.

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