I’ve been lax on posting lately and will now catch up by posting a few pictures from some of the places we’ve enjoyed this month. Taking the ferry along the coast gave us a great look at Amalfi and Positano from the water. The ferry stops at both places on its way to Capri.
We had a glorious day in Capri. Now that it’s September, the weather was perfect. (Yes, there were a thousand people there. Welcome to Capri, a “top ten” sight in Italy. 4 million people a year visit this tiny island.)
We stopped for coffee when we first arrived on Capri and sat sipping while we looked out over the busy harbor at Marina Grande. Before we left, we stopped for a spritz at one of the cafes off the Piazzetta. Again, we watched the many tourists and general bustle. Having read a few restaurant reviews before going out there, we decided to have a picnic lunch.
People who have trouble walking up and down a lot of steps may not enjoy the Amalfi coast, but on Capri, there is a walk from the top of the funicular in the Piazzetta of Capri out to the Belvedere Tragara that doesn’t include a lot of steps. The view over the rocks “I Faraglione” is stunning and there are some patches of light blue water when the bottom is sandy that are straight out of the Blue Grotto. There are benches here and there so you can stop and savor the view and picnic.
We did not visit the Blue Grotto while on Capri. This wasn’t restraint on our part, it was closed. The entrance is only accessible at low tide with calm seas. Later, I heard people saying that the Blue Grotto was very crowded and there was a long wait. From what I’ve read the water is clear blue illuminated from below and objects immersed in the water look silvery or ghostly. It sounds like a magical place even with many other visitors.
Practicalities of visiting Capri
It takes a full day to visit Capri whether you start from Naples, Sorrento or Salerno. Our ferry left at 8:40 am and we returned to the landing about 6 pm. We took the ferry from Salerno, 1.5-2 hour trip depending on conditions, €26 per person plus fees. The funicular from the ferry landing at Marina Grande, Capri, to the town center was very crowded (€2 per person each way), but better than walking. There are also buses, just as crowded. All vehicles on Capri are mini-sized. High end shopping is a serious activity on Capri. Every designer you’ve ever heard of has a store there and there are quite a few fine jewelry and watch stores on the streets radiating out from the Piazzetta.
Boat trips around the island start at €18 per person in an open boat with about 25 people, to private charters at €250 and up per boat that can include a stop for swimming. All tours include a stop at the Blue Grotto if it is open. The Blue Grotto is €14 per person in a small rowboat.
There are walks available on Capri if you stay longer than one day and have good stair-climbing ability. The island has a few tiny coves where you can rent lounges and umbrellas and take a swim. Remember that when Italians say “beach” they don’t mean sand they mean sunbathing. If you stay longer than one day, you might visit the second town on Capri, Anacapri, a short bus ride from the ferry landing.
We returned on the ferry, enjoying one last view of Positano and Amalfi, like tidepools caught on the rocky coast.