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A peculiar sight in the Fez medina is the Glaoui palace. The lavish home of a pasha of the early 20th century, the Glaoui family sided with the French and were stripped of all their properties when Morocco achieved independence. For reasons that are completely mystifying, the family palace in Fez has lain unused for a very long time. (I have no idea who actually owns it.) A former caretaker’s family and his descendants allow visitors to tour some of the rooms, which were spectacular in their heyday long ago. Today the Glaoui palace is a crumbling reminder of the past. It would be much better served by a multi-million dollar renovation turning it into a hotel/conference center, but no one seems interested, possibly because of the cavernous size of the place. It is said to have 100 rooms. I am sure many of them are smaller than the main floor rooms we were shown, but it is an amazing ruin. I believe that photographers and architectural historians compose the bulk of its visitors.

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